Tuesday, July 15, 2014
July 14: Cadiz tip
The city, oldest in Europe, is located on a long earthen extension out to sea. The Phoenicians, Romans etc treated it as a strategic military point. The city looks to be built around and over the many subsets of fortress walls. Cadiz also acted as one of the primary cities the Spanish ships from the Americas would return. There are watch towers built within the city to identify returning ships from the Americas.
Monday, July 14, 2014
July 14: Cadiz
On the train to Granada, an Austrian was saying how great his visit was to Cadiz on the coast. Given the temperature is reaching 100 inland, I thought to spend a few days here. Cadiz is one of several cities where the Spanish ships would return from the New World laden with silver and gold.
July 12 : changes through time
Through the years the Alhambra's construction (eg walls) would change to meet the latest in military thought. For example, more rounded fortress walls were integrated to withstand the advent of canon ball bombardment. A whole lot of effort, lives, wealth and creativity went into making Alhambra impenetrable. It is ironic to me the place would fall without bloodshed but due to deception from the Spanish crown of Ferdinand and Isabela.
July 12 : Washington Irving
This American author wrote a book in the 1800s about Alhambra that really gave fame to the place. After many centuries of the Alhambra's construction, Granada was the last Moorish hold out in Spain, the place started to deteriorate after the Spaniards took it over. Washington Irving's writing help draw attention to how important Alhambra was to posterity.
July 12: Alhambra
Below is the first stage of the Alhambra. It was built on a hill overlooking Granada and as a defense against the Christians. As each new ruler came to power, a new stage to the fortress city would be added.
The fortress was designed to be self sufficient, with water carried by a massive aqueduct from the Sierras nearby and food grown within the walls. Water features were designed to both store the water inside yet have the water constantly moving through fountains and cascading structures to keep it from stagnation.
July 12: Granada, Spain
I made the trek from Faro, Portugal to Granada, Spain to see the Alhambra. This entailed a three hour bus ride to Seville, and a three hour train to Granada. Below is a picture of the Alhambra.
Thursday, July 10, 2014
July 10: Faro
I took the train from Porto speeding through Lisbon (because it looked like LA) all the way to Faro. ..Far a way. I stayed two days here. Today I walked 20km out to the coast and back. One of the advantages of having just walked from south to north Spain is that I can go just about anywhere, with enough time.
This picture is another example of Latin love. Since I needed to repackage my walking sticks for airline luggage, I got the bright idea to go to the Portugal Post Office. I figured that if they could package my sticks for the mail, that would be good enough for American airport security etc. However the post person told me she could try putting my carbon fiber tipped walking sticks in two envelopes! I told her I didn't think that would do the trick. The guy behind me offered to translate the dialog. Finally he offered to take me to a grocery store to package the sticks up. He had the butcher lady using meat wrapping paper with carboard etc. It was awesome!
July 8: the Camino de Portuguese!
The waterfront walk took me on the Camino!
I met some interesting people that day. I love how Latin people will just stop what they are doing (eg their jobs) and spend like a half an hour chatting you up. They really value interpersonal relationship. It is probably also the other side of the coin being accused by Northern European types of being lazy etc.
The biggest challenge I have had in Portugal is the language. Portuguese and Spanish are very similar. However Portuguese will tell you that they can understand Spanish whereas the Spanish can't understand the Portuguese. I spent my first day in Portugal wondering why Spain couldn't have conquered Portugal and consequently made my life a lot easier today. i can't understand Portuguese. I also came up with a new theory why the Argentine's have this "che" and "shhh" accent. It is because they have been hanging with the Brazilians just to the north and picked up the Portuguese accents.
July 7: Portugal flag
The Portuguese are very proud people. There flag is displayed frequently, almost as frequently as the USA flag is on people's attire.
My most educated guess on this American flag and cultural obsession I see in Latin cultures has to really do with TV. The USA exports media and along with it, selling hopes and dreams. My guess is that these people don't really love America as much as they love the prosperity, fame, power etc it is associated with through media. Perhaps one day these same people will be wearing clothes with the Chinese flag on it.
July 7: Porto
The city is known for Port wine which I didn't try. Plus it is known for these beautiful blue tile murals which were both on the inside and outside of historic buildings. This mural paints a picture of the crusades.
July 6-11: Portugal
I decided to take a train south from Santiago de Compestelo to see Portugal. I briefly thought I might walk the Camino Portugal. But I am saturated with walking for now.
The first stop was Porto. I stayed there for a couple of days. Basically the first day I stayed in bed resting after getting up at 4am for the train after a late night watching World Cup. The second day I walked the city's waterfront.
Tuesday, July 8, 2014
July 4: the last of the Primitivo
I would say the Primitivo is probably the most beautiful of the Caminos.
The next day I would walk another 33km on the Camino Frances toward Santiago. It was the same stretch I covered 8 months ago coming from the Camino Norte. There were pilgrims everywhere. A lot of Americans too which was a culture shock as I saw none on both the Camino Primitivo and Camino de la Plata. Vendors were hawking pilgrim crap along the path. I saw pilgrims talking on their cell phones. It was kind of depressing. At mile marker 17km to Santiago, I hopped on a bus to Santiago. I wasn't enjoying the Camino anymore. I realize that it is not a 'pilgrim' like thing to do. But under the zoo-like conditions, it wasn't the Camino for me any more. I was arteries.
Three Caminos in less than a year. The Camino Frances(by way of the Primitivo), Camino Norte, and Camino de la Plata. A total of almost 2800km. It has been an absolutely wonderful experience being on the Camino as opposed to necessarily finishing them. The local Spaniards have been the best part. I felt welcomed like family, invited into homes for food/beverages, patiently guided and cheered on. The next best thing have been meeting the fellow pilgrims from all over the world. Most of them are 'spiritual' types who don't believe in organized religion, an irony given the history of the Camino. The third best thing is that the Camino is a great (and inexpensive)way to see everyday Spain and its beauty. A path courses through the main arteries of the country while cheap accommodation awaits in the albergues. My goal was to experience Spain in as much of its realness as I could. That has happened for me. All in all, the Caminos have been a wonderful gift to have experienced!
oJuly 4: a 50km day
Given there was basically no accommodation except for a couple remote albergues and no tv, I hoofed it 50km to the next major village so that I could see Germany beat France. Luckily I entered Melida just about game time.
Right outside this ridgeline, I was given the heavy sell by some hippy dippy types who wanted me to come into their little makeshift buildings 'to relax.' The woman was telling me how a couple pilgrims were cooling their heals for a few days there after having some foot problems. If I wanted, there was a place for me to sleep up in the loft. It was bad timing for her as I was on a mission to watch a soccer game. I later came to find out that the hippies were running an 'albergue' and would eventually hit you up for money as you got comfortable in their commune.
This ridge ended up being the last of the Primitivo as Melida was on the path of the Camino Frances (zoo).
July 4: my saint! Mathias
Finally after criss crossing Spain, I come across my namesake village! Not much to see but a few houses.
July 3: a special dump truck complete with police takes this away
It smelt like death as the juices of meat had been decaying. As they removed the trash, the smells were disgusting.
July 3: the trash was blown around the streets
I discovered that the trash workers had been on strike for three weeks because of the austerity measures from the Spanish government.
July 3: Lugo
A nice sunny day for a change. Lugo stands as the 100km mark to Santiago.
I was struck by the trash everywhere as I entered the city. There were piles of it.
Wednesday, July 2, 2014
July 2: update
I am 30km outside Lugo and 135km outside Santiago. The route has been pretty much walking up or down. There has just been no walking horizontal. It actually works to my strength as a walker as my body seems built for mountains. The typical speedster kills me in the straight away. However the average pilgrim seems to poop out going up the hill or struggle descending. The perfect descent is just enough slope where I can use gravity to let me fall down the hill just using enough effort to guide the fall. On the way up it is turtle speed, constant and determined-step by step.
I am starting to suffer from all the wet weather I have been seeing in Galicia. If it isn't raining on me, it is the morning dew from the wet grass and bushes that drench everything. Plus it isn't exactly warm here, averaging probably the high 40s or low 50s when I am walking. I complained the other day to the owner of the albergue that it was cold. She told me she wasn't turning the heat on in July. So I am fighting a little summer cold. Oh well!
Tomorrow I will be in Lugo, a fairly large city. It was another of the Roman fortress like cities which eventually was overrun by tge Visgoths and then Moors.
Tuesday, July 1, 2014
June 29: little pony looks on as I start the descent
Straight down the mountain. Luckily I had walking sticks to break my rapid descent
June 29: Pilgrim Hospital
I came across some pilgrims who pitched a tent near here. They said the night was very windy and cold.
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